🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.